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葡萄酒学习笔记

为推广葡萄酒文化出一份力~~~一起来学院派吧!让葡萄酒也rock起来!!!

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2014 / . 06 / . 11

2014WSET大师级考试题新鲜出炉,小伙伴们来看题长信心吧!

首先按照惯例,主页菌再次为近期久未更新进行检讨 _Orz

言归正传,上周wset master of wine考试参加人数创历史新高,来自世界各地106位学生参加了在伦敦举行的考试。考试分3项内容:理论 4 papers,实操 3 papers, 还有一个dissertation或者research paper。形式上就像学位考试,是吧?(木哈哈)内容上,也是很有挑战性的哟~~~以下是wine searcher网站上发布的理论和实操考试完整试题。原文链接http://www.wine-searcher.com/docs/mini_exam_2014.pdf

INSTITUTE OF MASTERS OF WINE
MASTER OF WINE EXAMINATION 2014


Theory Paper 1 – The Production of Wine – Part 1
(one question to be answered from Section A and two from Section B)
Section A
1) How can viticultural and winemaking techniques influence aromatic compounds in wine? Refer to wines made from Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
2) Skin contact can last from minutes to months. Assess how varying this technique can influence
wine style and quality before, during and after fermentation.
Section B
3) Do the highest potential quality wines come from vines planted on a slope?
4) Why do winemakers use different fermentation temperatures? Refer to white and red table wines.
5) What are the quantitative and qualitative implications of young and old vines?
6) How important is the management of the area between the rows? Consider vineyards in
both warm and cool climates.

Theory Paper 2 – The Production of Wine – Part 2
(one question to be answered from Section A and two from Section B)
Section A
1) Assess the role of oxygen in the maturation of fortified wine.
2) What are the critical factors (following primary fermentation and possible malolactic conversion)
affecting quality in bottle-fermented sparkling wine?
Section B
3) What quality control procedures can make it possible to trace the origin of a bottle of wine?
4) Why are fining agents required during winemaking, and what factors influence the choice of
fining agent?
5) Consider micro-oxygenation as an alternative to barrel ageing.
6) “We consider the best wine is one that can be aged without any preservative; nothing must be
mixed with it which might obscure its natural taste” (Columella, 4-70AD). Assess the impact
of chemical and physical intervention on the handling of wine following malolactic
conversion.

Theory Paper 3 – The Business of Wine
(one question to be answered from Section A and two from Section B)
Section A
1) What matters more, what's in the bottle or what's on the bottle? Does the wine industry take
packaging seriously?
2) Which factors are the most important for the long term success of a wine brand?
Section B
3) How close should a producer be to the end consumer? What are the best practical means of
creating that relationship?
4) Can Australia recover its export markets?
5) What would be the implications of a short harvest in 2014 in European vineyards?
6) Are price promotions bad for the wine industry?

Theory Paper 4 – Contemporary Issues
(one question to be answered from Section A and one from Section B)
Section A
1) Is wine becoming too industrial?
2) Does the wine industry lack innovation?
Section B
3) To what extent do you agree with the assertion that viticultural legislation does more harm
than good?
4) Can the wine industry ever be socially responsible?
5) To what extent is fake wine a problem in today’s wine market?

Practical Paper 1


Question 1.
Wines 1-4 come from the same country.
With reference to all four wines
a) Identify the country of origin. (16 marks)
For each of the four wines
b) Identify the region of origin as closely as possible. (4 x 5 marks).
c) Discuss the key winemaking techniques used to produce this style.
(4 x 8 marks)
d) Discuss quality in relation to the region of origin. (4 x 8 marks)
Question 2.
Wines 5-8 come from four different countries and are made from the same single grape variety.
With reference to all four wines
a) Identify the grape variety. (24 marks)
For each wine
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (4 x 10 marks)
c) Discuss quality and style. (4 x 9 marks)
Question 3.
Wines 9-12 are all made from a single variety. Two varieties are represented.
a) Divide the wines into their respective varietal pairs using both wines to identify the variety. (2 x 20 marks)
In addition to being paired by variety, they are also paired by country.
b) Divide the wines into their respective pairs by country and discuss their individual origins as closely as possible. (2 x 20 marks)
c) Taking one of the geographical pairs you have identified above, compare and contrast their method of production. (10 marks)
d) For the other geographical pair of wines you have selected which characteristics might you highlight to a potential customer? (10 marks)

1. Viognier, Organic, Yalumba. 2012. South Australia, Australia (14.5%)
2. Semillon, Bin 9000, McGuigan. 2007. Hunter Valley, Australia (11%)
3. Chardonnay, Shadowfax Wines. 2009. Victoria, Australia (13%)
4. Sauvignon Blanc – Semillon, Suckfizzle, Stella Bella Wines. 2009. Margaret River, Australia (13%)
5. Watervale Riesling, Mount Horrocks. 2013. Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia (12.5%)
6. Riesling, Grand Cru Muenchberg, Domaine Ostertag. 2011. Alsace, France (13.5%)
7. Riesling, Domaine Rewa. 2011. Central Otago, New Zealand (11.5%)
8. Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling, Kabinett Trocken, Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan. 2011. Pfalz, Germany (11.5%)
9. Chablis, Grand Cru Les Clos, Duplessis. 2010. Burgundy, France (13%)
10. Chardonnay, Coddington, Kumeu River. 2011. Auckland, New Zealand (13.5%)
11. Sancerre, Domaine Vacheron. 2012. Loire, France (12.5%)
12. Sauvignon Blanc, Tinpot Hut. 2013. Marlborough, New Zealand (13%)

Practical Paper 2


Question 1.
Wines 1-4 are all made from the same single variety, but come from four different countries.
With reference to all four wines
a) Identify the grape variety. (28 marks)
For each wine
b) Identify the origin as closely as possible. (4 x 8 marks)
c) Comment on the quality and commercial appeal. (4 x 10 marks)
Question 2.
Wines 5-8 come from two different estates. Two wines from estate “A”, two wines from estate “B”. All four wines are from the same region but from four different vintages.
a) Divide the wines into their respective pairs and identify their origin as
closely as possible. (2 x 16 marks)
b) Within each pair, compare and contrast relative quality. (2 x 18 marks)
For each wine
c) Identify the vintage giving reasons for your conclusion. (4 x 8 marks)
Question 3.
Wines 9-12 are all from the same country.
With reference to all four wines
a) Identify the country of origin. (28 marks)
For each wine
b) Identify the specific origin with reference to the grape variety(ies) used. (4 x 9 marks)
c) Comment on the quality and maturity. (4 x 9 marks)

1. Saint Joseph, Silice, Pierre et Jerome Coursodon. 2010. Rhone, France (14%)
2. Syrah, La Cumbre, Errazuriz. 2008. Aconcagua Valley, Chile (14.5%)
3. Syrah, Qupe. 2011, Central Coast, California, USA (13.5%)
4. Shiraz, The Dead Arm, d’Arenberg. 2009. McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia (14.5%)
5. Chateau Lynch Bages. 2006. Pauillac, Bordeaux, France (13%)
6. Chateau Nenin. 2008. Pomerol, Bordeaux, France (13.5%)
7. Chateau Lynch Bages. 2009. Pauillac, Bordeaux, France (13.5%)
8. Chateau Nenin. 2010. Pomerol, Bordeaux, France (14.5%)
9. Villacreces. 2009. Ribera del Duero, Spain (14%)
10. Petalos, J. Palacios. 2011. Bierzo, Spain (14.5%)
11. Simply Garnacha, Bodegas Borsao for Tesco. 2013. Campo de Borja, Spain (13.5%)
12. Vina Ardanza, Reserva, La Rioja Alta S.A. 2004. Rioja, Spain (13.5%)

Practical Paper 3


Question 1.
Wines 1-4 are from four different countries. None of the wines are from Champagne.
For each wine
a) Identify the origin as closely as possible with reference to the grape
variety(ies) used. (4 x 10 marks)
b) Discuss the method of production. (4 x 7 marks)
c) Comment on quality and commercial position. (4 x 8 marks)
Question 2.
Wines 5-8 are from three different countries.
For each wine
a) Identify the country and region of origin. (4 x 7 marks)
b) With reference to grape varieties used, discuss the method of production.
(4 x 7 marks)
c) Comment on the quality and ability to improve in the bottle. (4 x 7 marks)
d) State alcohol level (%). (4 x 2 marks)
e.) State residual sugar (g/l). (4 x 2 marks)
Question 3.
Wines 9-10 are produced from two different countries in Europe.
For each wine
a) Discuss the method of production. (2 x 10 marks)
b) Comment on the quality. (2 x 8 marks)
For both wines
c) Compare and contrast the commercial potential. (14 marks)
Question 4.
Wines 11-12 are produced in different countries.
For each wine
a) Identify the country and region of origin as closely as possible.
(2 x 10 marks)
b) Discuss the method of production. (2 x 7 marks)
c) Comment on the quality and maturity. (2 x 8 marks)

1. Cava, L’Hereu, Raventos i Blanc. 2011. Penedes, Spain (12%)
2. Vouvray Brut, Francois Pinon. NV. Loire, France (12.5%)
3. Riesling, Sektmanufaktur Graf. 2010. Pfalz, Germany (12.5%)
4. Le Reve, Blanc de Blancs, Domaine Carneros. 2006. Carneros, California, USA (12%)
5. East India Solera Sherry, Lustau. NV. Jerez, Spain (20%)
6. 15-yr old Malmsey, Blandy’s. NV. Madeira, Portugal (19%)
7. Six Grapes, Reserve Port, Graham’s. NV. Port, Portugal (20%)
8. Banyuls, Rimage, Domaine La Tour Vieille. 2011. Roussillon, France (16%)
9. Miraval Rose. 2013. Cotes de Provence, France (13%)
10. Pheasant’s Tears, Rkatsiteli. 2011. Kakheti, Georgia (12.5%)
11. Menage a Trois, Folie a Deux Winery. 2012. California, USA (13.5%)
12. Amarone della Valpolicella, Allegrini. 2009. Veneto, Italy (15.5%)

2014 / . 01 / . 07

【葡萄快讯】世界种植最多的葡萄品种重新洗牌

葡萄酒圈这两天的一大新闻就是赤霞珠和美乐终于名正言顺地称王封后了。下面这篇报道转自wine-searcher,非常nice地提供了阿德莱德对葡萄品种种植情况最新调查结果的下 载 链 接!大家自取吧~~~

The World's Most-Planted Varieties: Winners & Losers

【葡萄快讯】世界种植最多的葡萄品种重新洗牌

© Rioja Wine | Tempranillo is king in the Spanish region of Rioja

A new database of grape plantings documents a rapidly changing wine world.

By Rebecca Gibb | Posted Tuesday, 07-Jan-2014

Airen, grenache and rkatsiteli were the world’s most widely planted grape varieties 20 years ago, but mighty cabernet sauvignon and merlot have since knocked them from their top slots.

That’s just one of the findings released by the University of Adelaide, which has published what they’re calling the first database of the world’s wine grapes and regions. Compiled over the past year using statistics from more than 500 regions in 44 countries, with information on 1,271 varieties, the database covers 99 percent of global wine production, its authors claim.

Former front-runner airen "was a pretty forgettable grape in Spain that went out of popularity," Professor Kym Anderson told Wine-Searcher. "People just ripped it out, especially when there were subsidies for vine pull, and replaced them, mostly with reds." While airen remains the most-planted grape variety in Spain, covering nearly a quarter of the country's vineyards in 2010, its share has fallen by 8 percent – nearly 140,000 hectares – in the last decade.

By contrast, tempranillo has enjoyed a boom, rising from a little over 5 percent of Spain’s vineyards to 20 percent. Indeed, in the 10 years to 2010, 140,000 hectares of tempranillo were planted, making it the fastest-expanding variety in the world. It's likely that tempranillo has replaced many vineyards that were previously planted to airen.

When it comes to rkatsiteli, a white variety known for its ability to reach high sugar levels and retain acidity, the collapse of the Iron Curtain played a large part in its decline.

“The fall of the Soviet Union led to a fall in hectares [of rkatsiteli] in those countries that were part of the Union,” explained Anderson. In addition, this ancient grape was one of the casualties of Mikhail Gorbachev’s vine-pull scheme, but it still remains the most-planted variety in Georgia today.

The University of Adelaide statistics also show a move towards greater homogeneity of varieties, in part as a result of the success of varietal labeling. Globally, 35 varieties accounted for 59 percent of the world’s wine grapes by area in 2000, but by 2010 that share was 66 percent.

Anecdotal evidence suggests that in recent years there has been a rising tide of producers moving back to indigenous and "alternative" varieties. The aim of these winemakers is to return to their native roots and/or diversify their offerings. However, this trend is too recent to have been picked up by the Adelaide researchers.

“There is a movement towards [diversity],” said Anderson. “That’s something that Jancis Robinson mentions in her ‘Wine Grapes’ book. I put our data to her and pointed out that it’s not showing up. The trend must be more recent than 2010."

The Adelaide database uncovers changing trends in consumer preferences. “In 2000, white wine grapes were more widely grown. However, in the decade to 2010 red wine grapes increased their share of the global vine-bearing area from 49 percent to 55 percent,” reported Anderson.

“This is consistent with what we know about changes in wine consumption, with numerous countries moving away from white and consumption rising in recent years in China where red wine is preferred."

As the wine world changes, another important factor is climate change, which is influencing the grapes that wine producers are choosing to plant. "They’re continually on the lookout for attractive varieties that perform well in climates similar to what they expect theirs to become in the decades ahead," he said.

In addition, technological advances in grape growing and winemaking have given a boost to some varieties: "grapes that have been difficult to grow, like fiano in Campania, people now know how to make good wine from them.“

The world’s 10 most-planted varieties in 1990

1. Airen
2. Garnacha tinta
3. Rkatsiteli
4. Sultaniye
5. Trebbiano Toscana
6. Mazuelo
7. Merlot
8. Cabernet sauvignon
9. Monastrell
10. Bobal

...And in 2010

1. Cabernet Sauvignon
2. Merlot
3. Airen
4. Tempranillo
5. Chardonnay
6. Syrah
7. Garnacha tinta
8. Sauvignon blanc
9. Trebbiano Toscano
10. Pinot noir

* The free database is available to download. An e-book can also be downloaded from the University of Adelaide Press.

Published by Wine-Searcher.com

2014 / . 01 / . 07

【葡萄快讯】赤霞珠是当今世上种植最广的葡萄品种

英文原文转自the drinks business, 自译

【原标题】Cabernet now world’s most planted grape

6th January, 2014 by Lucy Shaw

http://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2014/01/cabernet-now-worlds-most-planted-grape/?article-source=newsletter&source=761&date=2014-01-06

 

Cabernet Sauvignon is the world’s most widely planted grape variety, a recent study from the University of Adelaide has found.

 

Since 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have more than doubled their share of hectares under vine, making them the top two cultivated varieties in the world.

 

In the same period, Tempranillo and Chardonnay have more than trebled their areas of cultivation to move into fourth and fifth place, while Syrah has jumped from 35th place to sixth and Garnacha has slid from second to seventh place.

 

阿德莱德大学最近的一项研究发现,赤霞珠是全世界种植最广泛的葡萄品种。

 

1990年至今,赤霞珠和美乐葡萄树所占的公顷比例翻了1倍多,成为世界上栽培最多的两大品种。

 

同一时期,丹魄和霞多丽的面积翻了2倍多,跻身第4和第5的位置,而西拉则从第35位跃升至第6,歌海娜则从第2位滑落到第7.

 

The study, funded by the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation, spans 44 different wine producing countries, 521 wine regions and 1,271 different grape varieties.

 

该研究由Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation赞助,涉及44个不同的葡萄酒生产国家,512个葡萄酒产区和1271个葡萄品种。

 

Spanish white variety Airén is now the world’s third most widely planted grape

西班牙的白葡萄品种艾伦是现在世界种植第3广泛的葡萄

 

 In the wake of wine’s globalisation, producers need to exploit their geographical and varietal distinctiveness in order to boost their competitiveness.

 

 This database offers transparency across the world’s wine varieties and regions,” co-author of the study, Kym Anderson of the University of Adelaide School of Economics, said.

 

“随着葡萄酒的全球化,生产者需要探索他们的地理和品种的特殊性,以提高自身的竞争力。这个数据库提供了全世界葡萄品种和产区的透明化信息”,研究的共同作者,阿德莱德经济学院的Kym Anderson说。

 

The database also reveals insights into changing trends in consumer behaviour.

 

透过这个数据库,还可以看到消费者行为变化趋势。

 

Twenty years ago, Spanish white variety Airén, was the most widely grown grape in the world. It has since fallen to third place behind Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

 

20年前,西班牙白葡萄品种艾伦是世界上种植最广的葡萄,但它从那时起就开始下跌,直至现在的第3位,排在赤霞珠和美乐之后。

 

The balance between red and white grape plantings has also shifted, with white grapes having a majority share in 2000, only to be overtaken in 2010 as red grapes grew their share from 49% to 55% of the world’s grape plantings.

 

红葡萄和白葡萄种植量的天平也在转变,白葡萄在2000年占多数,到2010年就被红葡萄赶超了,而红葡萄品种在全世界葡萄种植的比例则从49%增长到55%

 

This is consistent with what we know about changes in wine consumption, with numerous countries moving away from white and consumption rising in recent years in China where red wine is preferred,” Anderson said.

 

“这与我们了解到的葡萄酒消费情况一致,即很多国家白葡萄酒消费逐渐减少,而中国,红葡萄酒更受欢迎的国家,近年来的葡萄酒消费量不断升高”,Anderson说。

 

Anderson believes that in addition to being a research tool, producers can use the database to adapt their viticultural approaches in the wake of climate change.

 

Producers are well aware of the impact climate change is having on their grapes and are on the lookout for attractive varieties that perform well in climates similar to what they expect theirs to become in the decades ahead,” he said.

 

Anderson认为他们的数据库除了作为一个研究工具,还能够被生产者用来调整葡萄栽培措施以应对气候变化。

 

“生产者们很清楚气候变化已经对他们的葡萄产生了影响,也在寻找吸引目光的品种,能够在他们预计的10年后的气候情况下表现良好。

 

Spain, France and Italy currently account for 54% of the world’s grape growing vineyard area, which has declined in size by almost 6% between 2000 and 2010.

 

西班牙、法国和意大利目前拥有全世界54%生长着葡萄的葡萄园区域,而这些区域的大小则在20002010年间缩小了将近6%

2013 / . 11 / . 21

【调查】进口葡萄酒消费者特征及喜好调查

好唔吧,又一个主页菌来假公济私啦~

这是一个3分钟内即可答完的问卷,一共9个问题~

问卷地址:

http://app.askform.cn/e00ba3ee-0cc3-4533-81c5-86d10b3155e0.aspx?Type=2

 

先行谢过!结果统计出来后,如可以公布,主页菌会跟大家分享调查分析的结果哦~~

2013 / . 10 / . 13

【葡萄游记】梅多克中级庄专场品酒会

        hi各位好久不见啦~九月份对于主页菌来说是个非常忙碌的月份(当然不是去收葡萄),所以很多该更新的东西都没有写上来。今天给大家带来的是8月30号,我在广州参加的一场由Sopexa和梅多克中级名庄联盟(以下简称ACBM)联合举办的梅多克2010中级名庄品酒会的briefing。

在品酒会开始之前,ACBM先是对2010年梅多克地区的气候、土壤进行了介绍,随后介绍了中级庄的评选制度,以及最新的防伪标示(就是瓶颈上有一个二维码,这个二维码从08年开始发放,10年开始强制执行)。

 

本次共有80多家酒庄参展,主页菌只有体力喝其中的16家……在此选出每个地区各一家的酒评给大家~

 

Medoc地区:

Chateau DE BENSSE 邦斯酒庄

面积28公顷,品种75%美乐、25赤霞珠。

有布林和莓子的味道,摇晃过后果酱和烟熏表现明显,酒体中等偏下,单宁中等,喉咙略有热感。回味稍短,有一点酸。

Chateau VIEUX ROBIN 老罗宾酒庄

面积10.36公顷,品种55%赤霞珠、40%美乐、3%品丽珠、2%味而多。

berry、黑加仑香气,入口甘甜,辛辣;单宁中上,酒体中上,酸度中度偏下,回味中等。

 

Haut-Medoc地区:

Chateau BEAUMONT 博蒙酒庄

面积115公顷,品种53%赤霞珠、43%美乐、4%味而多

香气比较单一,meaty,熟水果;入口微苦,中等单宁,m-酒体,m-酸度,m+酒精度。回味中短。

 

Listrac Medoc地区:

Chateau BAUDAN 博当酒庄

面积7.3公顷,52%赤霞珠、45%美乐、3%味而多。

植物香气为主,green、wood、herbal&mint,入口微甜,草本、草药味道加重,中等酒体、单宁,m-酒精,中等回味。

 

Moulis地区:

Chateau BRANAS GRAND POUJEAUX 布拉讷-格朗宝捷酒庄

面积12公顷,品种50%美乐、45%赤霞珠、5%味而多

橡木、焦糖、太妃糖香气,m+单宁、中等酒精度、中等酒体、m-酸度,中等回味。

 

Margaux地区:

Chateau La TOUR DE MONS 蒙斯之塔酒庄

面积58公顷,品种55%美乐、36%赤霞珠、5%味而多、4%品丽珠。6-8月陈酿

红色水果和烟熏香气,中等单宁、m+酒精。中等酸度,中等回味~

 

Pauillac地区:

Chateau LA FLEUR PEYRABON 贝波之花酒庄

面积7公顷,品种67%赤霞珠、26%美乐、7%味而多

烘烤(美拉德反应的味道),黑加仑以及烟熏味告诉我们这就是赤霞珠~m+的单宁、酒精、酒体,中等酸度,m+回味。

(好酒!不解释……)

 

Saint-Estephe地区:

Chateau TOUR DES TERMES 地位之塔酒庄

面积15公顷,品种55%美乐、25%赤霞珠、15%品丽珠、5%味而多

2/3 gravel,1/3 clay。

limestone、herbal、wood、oak香气,m+酸度和单宁,中等酒精,off-dry。中等回味。

 

【打字打一小时的主页菌快断气了。。。。】

图片改日再上:)

2013 / . 08 / . 29

【电影推荐】纪录片《SOMM》(侍酒师)

【影片介绍(转自Decanter)

Film review: Somm 

SOMM, the 2012 Napa Valley Film Festival's headlining film and debut feature from director Jason Wise, attempts to pull back the curtain on the mysterious Master Sommelier Exam.

揭开侍酒大师考试(Master Sommelier Exam)神秘帘幕的电影《侍酒师(SOMM)》,作为纳帕谷电影节重头戏好评如潮。

【电影推荐】纪录片《SOMM》(侍酒师)

The central figure here is not any of the four principal characters that inhabit its universe, but rather the exam itself—or its long shadow.

SOMM conveys surprising emotional depth for a movie about a process, yet its chief subject remains on guard, illuminating its aspirants while revealing itself only indirectly.

影片的主角并非这四名参加考试的主人公,而是侍酒大师考试本身——或者说是它映射出的样貌。作为描绘一个特定过程的纪录片,《侍酒师》传达出了出人意料的情感深度;而其主体仍然保持距离,既点拨了其他有心参加考试的人,同时又只间接地展现自己

 

Fitting nicely into the vein of charming, smart documentaries about the tunnel vision of geeky obsessives, SOMM follows four sommeliers – Ian Cauble, Dustin Wilson, Brian McClintic, and Dlynn Proctor – in the crazed final weeks leading up to the notoriously difficult exam.

这部无疑可以算得上兼具魅力和智慧的大作的纪录片,展现了几个有着书呆子气息的执迷者向着唯一目标的奋力拼搏。《SOMM》记录了4个侍酒师——Ian Cauble, Dustin Wilson, Brian McClintic, Dlynn Proctor,在难考到出了名的侍酒大师考试疯狂的最后几周的表现。

 

McClintic serves as a narrator for the process, and the film trains its lens chiefly on preparations for the feared blind tasting, a make-or-break section for many candidates.

 

Practice sessions produce scenes both comic and intensely confrontational. In what may easily pass for a useful tutorial in how to spit with aplomb, viewers may find a few new curious descriptors (what does a freshly cut rubber hose smell like, exactly?) while peering into the secret-late night world of sommeliers.

 

Proctor waltzes across the screen, exuding charm at every step, but it is Cauble, spiralling from overconfident to shell-shocked and back again, who provides the film's most wrenching, human moments.

McClintic也作为整个过程的叙述者,影片着重将镜头放在那个让所有考生都惧怕的、不成则败的环节——盲品。

盲品练习期间的场面,既滑稽又激烈。在这个可以作为教人如何在品酒时优雅沉稳地描述葡萄酒的教程的片段中,观众可以听到一些很有意思的描述(话说新切开的橡皮管是啥味道?),同时也一瞥侍酒师们隐秘的夜生活景象。

Proctor在镜头中走动时如跳着华尔兹一般,每一步都散发着魅力;而Cauble则在自信满满和萎靡不振之间来回摆动,展现了影片最扣人心弦、富于人性的瞬间。

 

Sommeliers are a misunderstood species, derided by winemakers and critics who do not share their sensibilities and heralded as 'gatekeepers' by those that do.

In America, the 'somm' may be poised as the next celebrity du jour of the restaurant world—although one cannot imagine the sommelier's lasting fame (or pride) will ever rival that of the chef's—and SOMM could plunge headlong into that puffery.

But it doesn't: Wise lets the players' ambitions (and failures) speak, and crafts a satisfying, personal story about cracked, flawed, interesting people who happen to sell wine in Italian cut suits, and minus the tastevin.

侍酒师是一个被误解的种族,受到不具备他们那种敏感的酿酒师和酒评的嘲弄,而具备了的人也只将他们视为“看门人”而已。

在美国,侍酒师或许被看做是餐馆界的明日之星——不过很难想象侍酒师的名誉(或自豪)会超越大厨,《侍酒师》仍可能轻易被纳入浮夸之列。

但它并没有:导演Jason Wise让他们的雄心壮志(以及失败),精巧设计出了一个令人满意的故事,一个关于这些崩溃过的、有瑕疵的、有意思的人们的故事。

 

The SOMM world premiere drew a standing ovation at the Napa Valley Opera House, as hundreds of wine professionals converged on the valley. Wise remains humble: 'Last year (Alexander Payne's) The Descendants opened the Napa Valley Film Festival…to put SOMM in that same place is the greatest honor we have been given.' A big stage for a film, and a profession.

数百名葡萄酒业内人士聚集在纳帕谷参加《侍酒师》的世界首映,它在纳帕谷歌剧院里获得了全场热烈的起立鼓掌。导演仍然谦逊地说:“去年亚历山大·佩恩的《后裔》在纳帕谷电影节首映,《SOMM》也能在同样的地方首映就是我们获得的最大荣誉。”这里无疑是一部影片的大舞台,亦是一个行业的大舞台。

【电影推荐】纪录片《SOMM》(侍酒师)

Read more at http://www.decanter.com/news/blogs/guest/530603/film-review-somm#oRgoO5QUb17SiF0c.99

中译文:中国葡萄酒资讯网

 

【主页菌的话】

 

关于葡萄园和酿造过程的画面已经不能只用唯美来形容了,因为唯美通常是那些只追求好看的片子的风格,而本片在具备很高的观赏性的同时,又有着炒鸡专业的知识量,开篇的葡萄采收分选出汁过程一气呵成,镜头将每道工序的细节展现得非常专业也非常耐看,相信大家看到的时候也会和主页菌一样感受到葡萄的juicy~~~~

 

葡萄酒品评的专业步骤和各种术语也都完完整整地展现,看着candidates以连珠炮的语速毫不间断地说出各种香气和味道,主页菌已然长跪不起!专业英语虽然没白学,但new tennis ball这种奇葩的词都可以拿来形容雷司令的smell,真是大开眼界!

 

最后,上BT下载地址(无字幕): http://t.cn/zQ6fcMp, 感谢新浪微博 @红酒小川 @MJ-CR7 

2013 / . 08 / . 18

【心爱之物】2011年Stellenbosch*Casablanca

今天早上主页菌在家做了个2011水平品鉴,选择的酒款是Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2011和Carmen Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2011。以下是品酒笔记~(为方便起见品酒笔记中medium将缩写成m,主页菌就不打完整句子了……

 

【心爱之物】2011年Stellenbosch*Casablanca 【心爱之物】2011年Stellenbosch*Casablanca

Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2011

Appearance: clear, m gold wine.

Nose: clean, m(-) intensity; white flowers, fruits(mango) aromas; developing.

Palate: off-dry; m acidity, m alcohol, m body, m(-) flavour intensity; flowers, honey, cream, fruits aroma; m finish.

Conclusions: good wine; drink now, not suitable for further ageing.

 

【心爱之物】2011年Stellenbosch*Casablanca 【心爱之物】2011年Stellenbosch*Casablanca

Carmen Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2011 

Appearance: clear, m gold.

Nose: clean, m(+) intensity; honey, lemon, apricot aroma; developing.

Palate: dry, m(+) acidity, m(+) alcohol, m body, m(+) flavour intensity; lemon, apricot, nuts, honey aroma; m finish.

Conclusion: good wine; can drink now, but has potential for ageing.

 

【心爱之物】2011年Stellenbosch*Casablanca

2013 / . 07 / . 28

【葡萄快讯】Wine and China - a progress report 中国式葡萄酒庄园

Wine and China - a progress report

中国式葡萄酒庄园

22 Jun 2013 by Jancis Robinson/FT but this is longer

作者:英国《金融时报》专栏作家 简希丝•罗宾逊 报道

 

I don't know about other wine lovers but I felt a small glow of pride when the Chinese government made wine its diplomatic weapon of choice in the trade war over its cheap solar panels exported to the EU (see China threatens action against EU wine). Yes, volumes of European wine imported into China really are now significant enough to be worth slapping an additional tax on!

当中国政府在与欧盟(EU)进行光伏战,选择葡萄酒作为反击武器时,不知道各位葡萄酒爱好者做何感想,至少我自己小小引以为傲了一把。实话实说,我认为中国向欧盟进口的葡萄酒,在数量上已经完全达到了可以额外加税的水平!

 

【葡萄快讯】Wine and China - a progress report 中国式葡萄酒庄园 【葡萄快讯】Wine and China - a progress report 中国式葡萄酒庄园

The wine-in-China story is one with many different and often unrelated facets, however.  There is the surge of imported wine into China, the great volume of it pretty ordinary stuff, half of it imported in bulk to be given labels in China which bear only the most creative relationship to any known brand in their country of origin. One of my favourites is Royal Lateet, prominent when the réclame of Bordeaux first growth Château Lafite was at its height in China, but 'Bordeaux Port' on a label decorated with a fair copy of the engraving on a Lafite label was good, too.

中国葡萄酒市场的发展受着多方面因素的影响,而且这些因素之间常常看似并没有什么必然联系。中国葡萄酒的进口量正在激增,其中大量的产品质量很一般。有些葡萄酒通过散装的形式进口,之后在中国国内贴标,起的名称多多少少都与相对应原产国的知名品牌有着相似度,可谓创意无限——我最“欣赏”的一个是对众所周知的波尔多一级列级酒庄(Bordeaux first growth)拉菲庄园(Château Lafite)的山寨,这款葡萄酒的名字叫做Château Lateet。拉菲庄园的名望和美誉在中国市场达到顶峰时,这样的例子不胜枚举。除了Château Lateet之外,还有一个创意也“很不错”,那就是在酒标上标注“波尔多港口”(Bordeaux Port),同时还装饰有拉菲庄园酒标的雕刻图案。


Solicitor Nick Bartman, who had been based in Hong Kong and was aghast at how slack controls were on wine labels in China, aproached me more than three years ago seeking help to publicise the problem to wine exporters to China. It was then an uphill struggle to enlist the support of the wine trade and he has now moved on to other areas of dubious commercial practice in China but told me recently, 'we've done one major job in Shandong and I reckon we've done 30+ million damage to the fake wine business. I've worked with the police and others. Wine companies have been closed and others are now under strict supervision. There's more to do, but it's time for me to move on.' 

三年前,葡萄酒中间商尼克•巴特曼(Nick Bartman)向我寻求过帮助,咨询葡萄酒出口商宣传行业遇到的问题。他常驻香港,最近对中国在葡萄酒标注册法规方面的宽松程度瞪目结舌:“我们主要的工作重心在山东省,假酒在那里给我们带来的损失,目前估算已经超过了三千万欧元。我已经与警方以及其他相关部门协同作战多次,最终的结果是那里的多家葡萄酒公司倒闭,幸存下来的公司也在严格的监管之下。展望未来,虽然要做的事还很多,但至少我们在前进。”


 France, Spain, Chile and Australia in particular vie for this high-volume, low-profit sector of the wine business in China. Australian and other southern hemisphere wine exporters will presumably be hoping to benefit from the new, higher duties on wine imported from the EU. But the taxes are unlikely to have that much impact on sales of fine wines in China - not least because most of them are shipped to Hong Kong with its zero wine taxes and then somehow spirited across the border into China with its punitive but apparently avoidable duties of almost 50% by value. 

在中国市场,法国、西班牙、智利和澳大利亚这几个产酒国在大批量低利润产品领域中的竞争尤其激烈。澳大利亚等南半球国家期望中国上调欧盟葡萄酒的进口税,从而找到竞争优势,但是在中国市场,税率在这种档次产品上的影响肯定要远小于在精品葡萄酒(fine wines)上的影响——尤其是这些葡萄酒大多都是先运往零关税的香港而后又进入内地市场。中国内地的葡萄酒关税税率是货值的一半,明显高得离谱且带有惩罚性。

 Much more of a threat to this market on which so many hopes have been pinned, particularly by the Bordelais, who have recently seen demand in more traditional markets evaporate, is another Chinese government phenomenon: the strict crackdown on official gifts. This has been a hugely important factor in China's fine-wine market and helps to explain the inordinate trouble wine producers in China take with their packaging. Any ambitious Chinese wine comes packed in excessively lavish packaging, sometimes worth more than the wine itself. (I recently weighed the box and bottle of an offering from the Franco-Chinese Château Reifeng-Auzias of Shandong and found they came to almost 3 kg.) And there is a certain market, albeit increasingly fragile, that actively seeks out the most expensive wine possible regardless of quality. It is significant that the top Chinese wine with which peripatetic Bordeaux-based oenologist Michel Rolland is associated costs considerably more than his own Pomerol, Château Bon Pasteur - a property recently added to the growing list of Bordeaux châteaux acquired by Chinese investors, incidentally. 

对中国葡萄酒市场冲击更大的是政府新规——大力打压政府礼品消费。礼品消费一度是中国精品葡萄酒市场极其重要的因素,这也很好地解释了为什么葡萄酒生产商对葡萄酒进行过度包装,以及这种做法所产生的问题和麻烦。为了更好地销售葡萄酒,中国国产葡萄酒在包装上完全不惜工本,有时包装费甚至超过葡萄酒产品本身。确实有一部分消费者在购买葡萄酒时遵循着“买最贵而不买最佳”的原则——尽管这部分市场日渐脆弱,但目前看来还没有到崩塌的时候。中国消费者热衷于品牌,典型的例子是,与常驻波尔多的著名飞行酿酒师米歇尔•罗兰(Michel Rolland)有关联的最优质中国葡萄酒,价格远远高于他本人在波美侯(Pomerol)的出品。顺便说一下,隶属于中国投资者的波尔多庄园有一张“成长大名单”,米歇尔•罗兰卖给中国投资者的庞巴酒庄(Château Bon Pasteur)近期入选其中。

 Partly thanks to dogged work on the part of visiting French proprietors from Bordeaux, red bordeaux dominated the fine-wine scene in China initially but there is now an active desire to widen horizons on the part of that small proportion of the Chinese population that drinks wine (although even they will probably drink or give it only on special occasions). Burgundy is the obvious next stop on the Chinese wine route - a truly terrifying prospect for those who already have difficulty enough securing allocations from this extremely small fine-wine region. 

最初的中国精品葡萄酒市场由波尔多红葡萄酒(red bordeaux)所统治,部分原因是人们多年来对法国业主们坚持不懈的参观拜访造成了先入为主的印象。不过目前来看,仅占中国人口数量很少部分的葡萄酒饮家(即便他们可能只在一些特殊场合才喝葡萄酒,但也可以称其为葡萄酒饮家)已经开始拓宽自己在选酒时的产区范围。勃艮第(Burgundy, Bourgogne)显然是他们追逐的下一个目标——如此小的精品葡萄酒产区本身产量就非常有限,而中国人介入之后,那些本来就很难拿到配额的人将来的日子只会越来越不好过。


 As a result of the army of new wine importers in China, all hoping to capitalise on this new market but insistent on exclusivity, China is awash with brand names that are completely unknown in their country of origin. According to Shanghai wine lover Young Shi, 'there is lots of awful burgundy in China'. She is a Diploma graduate of the courses run by the London-based Wine & Spirit Education Trust, the world's leading wine-education provider which expects to see the number of its students in Hong Kong and the rest of China overtake its British student numbers this year. 
大批葡萄酒进口商如雨后春笋般涌现,在这个新兴市场上疯狂掘金并努力寻求独家代理权,造成的结果是本在原产国完全默默无闻的众多品牌在中国市场内大行其道。对于这个现象,上海一位葡萄酒爱好者施晔(Young Shi)的看法很有代表性:“在中国市场,有太多糟糕的勃艮第葡萄酒。”施晔拥有葡萄酒与烈酒信托基金(Wine & Spirit Education Trust, WSET)品酒师文凭,这是一个总部位于伦敦的世界领先葡萄酒教育机构,预计今年在香港和中国其他地区的学员数量将超过英国本土。


 Appearance is all when it comes to the production of wine in China, too. The countryside is now studded with vast palaces built in the image of what one might call Château Walt Disney that purport to be wineries but often harbour more air, marble and in some cases spirits than wine. (The photograph above left of Château ChangYu was taken by Jànis Miglavs, who specialises in Chinese wine photography, most recently having completed a book on Chinese wine due out later this year.) There sometimes seems no end to the number of Chinese plutocrats whose dream is to make the best and/or most expensive wine in China. Much of the expertise is imported, sometimes into countryside that has never previously seen a grapevine. 

在中国生产葡萄酒,表象至关重要,因此讨好外貌协会胜过一切。如今,中国广袤的乡村被很多独具特色的葡萄酒庄园所装点,你可以称这种特色庄园为“沃尔特•迪斯尼庄园(Château Walt Disney)”。如此建设的意图是想打旅游牌——来访者呼吸着这里的空气,抚摸着由大理石材料堆砌的建筑,有时候让人觉得形式已经大于内容,作为主角的葡萄酒本身反而成为了陪衬。目前看起来现在也有数不清的中国富豪有着酿造中国最好且最贵(或者但求最贵)葡萄酒的梦想,为了酿造最好的葡萄酒,大量的酿酒技术进入中国,其中一些引进技术的乡村地区之前连葡萄植株是什么样子都没有见过。


 Lilian Carter is an Australian winemaker who worked three harvests at the winery Pernod Ricard use for their Helan Mountain brand in the wine province of Ningxia. Along with Professor Li Demei, one of China's most respected winemakers, she has now been recruited to establish a privately owned 130-hectare wine estate 150 miles south west of the Muslim city of Urumqi, five hours' flying time west of Shanghai in the province of Xinjiang. Most of the grapes at WangZhong, as in most Chinese vineyards, are the red bordeaux staples of Cabernet and Merlot but Demei's involvement is likely to guarantee interest in the debut 2012 vintage. 

澳大利亚酿酒师莉莉安•卡特(Lilian Carter)曾在宝乐利加(Pernod Ricard)位于宁夏自治区酿造贺兰山(Helan Moutain)品牌的酒厂工作了三年,与中国最受推崇的酿酒师之一李德美教授共事。现在的她受雇于望中酒业(WangZhong),这是一座位于新疆自治区首府乌鲁木齐西南方的酒厂,占地130公顷。乌鲁木齐是穆斯林城市,位于中国西北部,距离上海有五个小时的飞机航程。与中国其他主要的葡萄园一样,望中所种植的也是中规中矩的波尔多红色品种,如加本纳(Cabernet)和美乐(Merlot),不过考虑到德美先生也参与其中,倒是让人对初次登台的2012年份出品很是期待。

 French consultant oenologist, and rival to Michel Rolland, Stéphane Derenoncourt has been drafted in by the ex chairman of the vast CITIC group to develop vineyards in Manasi county west of Urumqi, dramatically overlooked by the foothills of the Himalayas and on the old Silk Route. The advantage of this terrain compared with other Chinese wine regions such as Shandong in the east, where a Château Lafite team is busy establishing a vineyard, is its lack of humidity and vine diseases. The disadvantage is icy winters that mean that each vine has painstakingly to be buried each autumn. 

在名气和技术上与米歇尔•罗兰不分伯仲的法国酿酒顾问斯蒂芬•德侬古(Stéphane Derenoncourt)也被中信集团(CITIC)前董事长选为带头人,帮助集团在乌鲁木齐西边的玛纳斯县建立葡萄园。此地靠近古老的丝绸之路,由于地理位置的关系,喜马拉雅宏大的规模令其显得渺小而被人们所忽略。相比于中国其他产区(如拉菲庄园投资建立葡萄园的中国东部山东地区),玛纳斯地区的优势在于其地势特点导致了低湿度和低病害率。不过这里的劣势也很明显,那就是种植农必须在秋季进行非常费时费力的葡萄植株掩埋工作,以帮助其度过寒冷的冬季。

 And then there is the project in which the owner of St-Émilion first growth Château Cheval Blanc and LVMH are involved with a local investor in Yunnan province close to the Tibetan border, apparently in the most beautiful but isolated sky-high, Tibetan-influenced setting far enough south to need no winter protection.

 The Wild East indeed.

还有一个合作项目正在云南省靠近西藏边界的地区进行,那就是圣艾米利永(St-Emilion)一级酒庄(first growth)白马庄园(Château Cheval Blanc)和路威铭轩(LVMH)的拥有者与当地一位投资者的合作项目。目前看来这个项目最为漂亮,与世隔绝、高海拔和雪域高原是它独有的特色。另外,这里纬度很低,所以冬天可以不用为葡萄园做防护措施——野性的东方气质(Wild East)果然非浪得虚名。

译者/马钊

原文来源:Jancis Robinson个人网站

译文来源:FT中文网

(仅供广大酒友学习使用,请勿分享或转出。)

 

 

 

写在最后的主页菌的话:

 

主页菌一直都有在关注JR大神的网页,所以看到这篇文章的时候就想转来这里跟大家分享,然后就想着“附上译文给大家吧”,翻译到一半我才发现【FT中文网】这么个神奇的存在……(不搜索 Château Walt Disney 这么奇葩的单词真的都找不到了好吗……)

 

那么请大家好好学习!

 

2013 / . 07 / . 21

【心爱之物】西班牙Priorat优质产区好酒庄Mas Doix的两款特级陈酿。岩石丘陵干燥多日照的逆境下生长出的葡萄酿成结构饱满果香丰富的葡萄酒

mas doix庄1902(酒庄创始年)酒款 佳丽酿单品种2009年份 11年3月灌装。深邃的紫色,中心甚至带有violet blue,迷人的酒色将人引入酒香的深渊,入口顺滑无比直达喉咙,缎子般丝滑的口感魔力般吸引你不断去品尝,感受它逐渐散发开来的巧克力、香草等香气。15%的酒精隐蔽得相当成功~结构有张力,顺滑不失酸爽的口感展现酒庄不同于常见西班牙酒的清爽适口。也是一款wake up wine
mas doix庄1902(酒庄创始年)酒款 佳丽酿单品种2009年份 11年3月灌装。深邃的紫色,中心甚至带有violet blue,迷人的酒色将人引入酒香的深渊,入口顺滑无比直达喉咙,缎子般丝滑的口感魔力般吸引你不断去品尝,感受它逐渐散发开来的巧克力、香草等香气。15%的酒精隐蔽得相当成功~结构有张力,顺滑不失酸爽的口感展现酒庄不同于常见西班牙酒的清爽适口。也是一款wake up wine
Doix 2009 costers de vinyes velles Priorat 45%歌海娜,55%佳丽酿。14个月木桶陈酿。中午11点开瓶下午5点依然fresh!一款让人wake up的酒。强劲,大气,酷帅,复杂,醒脑的薄荷,妙不可言的果香,香草和蘑菇中透出丝丝烟草气息,酸度给力,回味超级长达40多秒~让我瞬间出现痴汉表情(PS:110年老藤所酿,故曰wise wine,葡萄也有大智慧)
Doix 2009 costers de vinyes velles Priorat 45%歌海娜,55%佳丽酿。14个月木桶陈酿。中午11点开瓶下午5点依然fresh!一款让人wake up的酒。强劲,大气,酷帅,复杂,醒脑的薄荷,妙不可言的果香,香草和蘑菇中透出丝丝烟草气息,酸度给力,回味超级长达40多秒~让我瞬间出现痴汉表情(PS:110年老藤所酿,故曰wise wine,葡萄也有大智慧)
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